ALL ABOUT GREENS

By Cynthia Lair Website
Fresh herbs and tender leaves like arugula, spinach, and watercress can be chopped raw and added to soups, salads, and grains , or lightly steamed. More mature greens like bok choy, kale, dandelion greens, and collards, taste bitter if you serve them raw, and the texture may be too tough for your easy chewing. Steaming these greens actually intensifies the bitterness. They need to be cooked in liquid where the bitter flavor can be dispersed.

First you need to prepare the greens. Remove large stems or break off small ones. Fill a sink with cold water and submerge the leaves. With herbs, leave the stems and hold on to them as you give the leaves a dunk. If there is sediment in the water, drain the sink and repeat. If you plan to put the greens in a salad, spin them dry. Leaves destined for cooking can have excess water shaken off and be placed on a towel or chopping board.

The issue at hand is how to cook the greens so they lose as little nutritional value as possible while shedding their bitter flavors. There are three cooking techniques that I like to use when cooking the more mature, bitter greens: quick-boiling, simmering, and sautéeing. To quick-boil greens, bring two quarts of water to a boil. Do not chop the leaves, but submerge them whole into the boiling water. Use a wooden spoon to move them from top to bottom.

To tell when they are done, use your senses. The leaves should begin to lose their perkiness and wilt slightly, but the bright green color will still be present. At this point, bring a leaf up with your spoon, tear off a piece, and chew it. If the flavor is bitter, let them cook more. The greens are just right when chewing a piece releases sweet juices in your mouth. If the color is gone or there is no flavor left when you chew it, they’ve cooked too long. The amount of time depends on the maturity of the green and the amount of leaves you’re cooking. For something like tender mustard greens, it should be a thirty- to sixty-second dip, while mature collard greens can take about five minutes.

Once you test the green and get a sweet flavor, pour the contents of the pot into a colander. Save the water, which is called pot-likker. Many cooks like to drink this nutrient-filled broth, but I like to use it to water my plants. Gently run cool water over the greens to halt cooking. Once they are cool enough to touch, gather them into a ball and gently squeeze out the excess water. Chop them on the cutting board and they are ready to dress and serve.

To simmer greens, bring about one inch of liquid (water, broth, wine . . .) to simmer in a large skillet. Chop the washed greens into strips. Place the strips in the simmering liquid and keep them moving with a wooden spoon. You are looking for the same results as described above: a bright green color and a sweet flavor; but since the greens have been chopped, the cooking time will be shorter.

When sautéeing greens, it is good to work with just-washed greens. The water helps with wilting and releasing bitterness. Heat 1-2 Tablespoons of oil in a skillet. Add a minced clove of garlic if desired. The garlic will tell you if you have the heat right. Too hot and the garlic will burn, too cool and the garlic will just sit there. If there is too much water on the greens or the oil is too hot, the oil will sputter, so take care. Chop the greens you are using into bite-sized pieces. Stacking the washed leaves is an easy way to make efficient, uniform cuts. Place cut leaves in the skillet and keep them moving. Stay with the process and test every minute or so for doneness. When the leaves are still full of color and tasting proves not bitter, but sweet, they’re ready!

HOW TO DRESS THEM UP
Once you have a heap of cooked greens in front of you, there are limitless possibilities. Frankly, I like to keep things simple and give them a dash of vinegar and a sprinkle of tamari, toss, and eat. Cooked greens can be added to soups, grain dishes, and salads to add color, flavor, and nutrients. You can prepare a heavenly peanut sauce to drizzle over greens, or toss them with toasted sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds for an Asian flavor. A squeeze of lemon is fine, but how about a little orange juice with garlic and a touch of chipotle sauce? Serve it over slices of polenta and it’s fit for company.

Following are some of my favorite greens recipes. I’ve included recipes that exemplify various preparation techniques , using greens raw and cooked. Another easy way to include greens in your meal is to take a less bitter green like chard or watercress and let it steam on top of an already prepared dish, as described in the Szechwan Tempeh with Swiss Chard recipe. Whatever way you choose to use them, let these superheroes rescue your next meal from the nutritional doldrums. Don’t be fooled by an antacid tablet claiming it’s your best source of calcium. Look! It’s a Vitamin C pill! It’s a digestive aid! No. It’s Captain Dark Leafy Green, ready to help you engage your warp drive and go! http://www.vrg.org/journal/vj2001may/2001maygreens.htm

MORE GREENS: A NUTRITIONAL OVERVIEW
Leafy dark greens boast an impressive nutritional profile. Rich in vitamins A (from beta-carotene) and vitamin C, they are also good sources of calcium, iron, folate and magnesium. Greens also contain lutein and zeaxanthin, which are believed to help protect against cataracts and macular degeneration. Here we'll cover some of the most nutrient rich, vitamin packed greens and the nutrition benefits derived from them.

Collard Greens: One of the milder of the sturdy greens, collards are an excellent source of folate, vitamin C and beta-carotene. Collards are especially high in calcium.

Bok Chok: Bok Choy is a Chinese variety of cabbages. It is an excellent source of vitamin C, beta-carotene and iron, as well as a good source of folate, vitamin B6 and calcium. Avoid buying bok choy that has brown spots on it, because it indicates some flavor has been lost.

Kale: While sweet following a light frost, kale generally has a stronger flavor than collard greens and can be quite coarse and peppery when raw. To ensure a milder texture and flavor, choose smaller kale leaves and cook them until tender. In addition to being an excellent source of vitamin C and beta-carotene, kale is also a good source of iron, vitamin B6, lutein and zeaxanthin.

Mustard Greens: Mustard greens may have an even stronger flavor than kale, but milder varieties are grown in Asia and are sometimes available in the United States.

Swiss Chard: Swiss chard is an excellent source of vitamin E, a nutrient that is usually only found in high-fat foods. It is also high in potassium, magnesium, vitamin C and beta-carotene. To preserve its crispness and sweetness, be sure to keep it chilled.

Spinach: Spinach is mild enough to be enjoyed both raw and cooked and contains carotenoids such as beta-carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin. Besides carotenoids, spinach is higher in folate than other greens. Cooking the spinach with a small amount of fat, such as olive oil, will enhance the availability of these nutrients.

Beet Greens: Rich in beta-carotene, vitamin C, iron and calcium, beet greens are often more nutritious than beets (with one exception: Beets are higher in folate). They are best for eating when young and tender.

Turnip Greens: The leafy tops of turnips are one of the bitterest greens available, so they are not often eaten raw. Like beet greens, they are best for eating when they are quite young. Although both turnips and turnip greens are nutritious, the best source of vitamins and minerals is the greens, which are high in vitamin C, beta-carotene and folate.

FEATURED VEGETABLE: COLLARDS

Collard greens are vegetables that are members of the cabbage family, but are also close relatives to kale. Although they are available year-round they are at their best from January through April.

Collard greens date back to prehistoric times, and are one of the oldest members of the cabbage family. The ancient Greeks grew kale and collards, although they made no distinction between them. Well before the Christian era, the Romans grew several kinds including those with large leaves and stalks and a mild flavor; broad-leaved forms like collards; and others with curled leaves. The Romans may have taken the coles to Britain and France or the Celts may have introduced them to these countries. They reached into the British Isles in the 4th century B.C.

According to the book, The Backcountry Housewife - A Study of Eighteenth-Century Foods, by Kay Moss and Kathryn Hoffman: The 17th century Lowland Scots had greens or potherbs "from the yard" along with their oat cakes or oatmeal. The switch to corn cakes or mush along with their greens in 18th century American was most likely not too difficult a transition for these folk. John Lawson remarked on the many green herbs, wild and cultivated, growing in Carolina in the early 1700's. These greens included lamb's quarters, plantain, nettles, rhubarb (dock rather than garden rhubarb), comfrey among "abundance more than I could name." The "abundance" most likely adds dandelion, sorrel, spinach, cabbage, lettuce, endive, cresses, and purslane to the list.

Collard greens have been cooked and used for centuries. The Southern style of cooking of greens came with the arrival of African people in slavery to the southern colonies and the need to satisfy their hunger and provide food for their families. Though greens did not originate in Africa, the habit of eating greens that have been cooked down into a low gravy, and drinking the juices from the greens (known as "pot likker") is of African origin. The African peoples of the plantations were given the leftover food from the plantation kitchen. Some of this food consisted of the tops of turnips and other greens. Ham hocks and pig's feet were also given to the slaves. Forced to create meals from these leftovers, they created the famous southern greens. Their diet began to evolve and spread when they entered the plantation houses as cooks. Their traditional African dishes, using the foods available in the region they lived in, began to evolve into present-day Southern cooking .

Southerners love their greens. A time-honored tradition in southern kitchens, greens have held an important place on the table for well over a century, and there is no other vegetable that is quite so unique to the region. Greens are any sort of cabbage in which the green leaves do not form a compact head. They are mostly kale, collards, turnip, spinach, and mustard greens. In the Southern states, a large quantity of greens to serve a family is commonly referred to as a "mess o' greens." The exact quantity that constitutes a "mess" varies with the size of the family.
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The traditional way to cook greens is to boil or simmer slowly with a piece of salt pork or ham hock for a long time (the salt tempers their tough texture and smoothes out their bitter flavor) until they are very soft. Typically, greens are served with freshly baked corn bread to dip into the pot-likker. Pot likker is the highly concentrated, vitamin-filled broth that results from the long boil of the greens. It is, in other words, the "liquor" left in the pot.
In spite of what some consider their unpleasant smell, reaction to the smell of cooking greens separates true southern eaters from wannabes.

According to folklore, collards served with black-eyed peas and hog jowl on New Year's Day promises a year of good luck and financial reward, hanging a fresh leaf over your door will ward off evil spirits, and a fresh leaf placed on the forehead promises to cure a headache.

BEETS & GRAPEFRUIT

• bunch beet roots
• 2 grapefruit, peeled, quartered
• 4 tablespoons butter
• Seasonings to taste

Boil the beets in salted water for about 45 minutes. Peel and slice them. Put butter in a sauce pan. When foaming, add the beets and the seasonings. Add the grapefruit. Let cook 2 minutes, then serve.

KALE & SPINACH QUICHE

• bunch kale, spinach, Swiss chard or collard greens
• 1/2 onion, chopped
• dill & other spices of your choice
• 1 whole grain pastry shell (9-inch)
• shredded cheese, to taste, your choice
• 1 cup sour or plain yogurt
• 3 eggs

Chop kale or other greens and saute with onion and spices. Into pastry shell, layer the shredded cheese, then sauteed vegetables. Whip sour cream with eggs and pour over vegetables. Bake at 350F until set, approximately 30-40 minutes (test center of quiche with a skewer).

Easy Spicy Kale & Mustard Greens

by Allura

• 3 cups kale (1 bunch)
• 3 cups mustard greens (1 bunch)
• 1 teaspoon olive oil or butter
• 1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon mustard seeds
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon green chili peppers
• 1 teaspoon garlic (minced or crushed)
• 1 lime wedge
• 4 teaspoons water

Prepare the kale and mustard greens by cutting middle stem out of each leaf. Rinse the leaves thoroughly. Cut the greens into strips that are about 1 inch by 3-4 inches. Add 4 tsp of water to a 2 quart pot. bring to boil on medium heat. Add the kale first, then the mustard greens pour 1/4 teaspon into the greens and cover tightly with lid. Cook for 5-10 minutes, stirring occaisionally, until the greens are wilted and tender. When the greens are done cooking, they should be dark green. Keep the lid on the pot and set aside. In a small saucepan heat 1 tsp oil or butter until almost smoking at medium high heat. Add mustard seeds and cumin seeds. They will pop and sizzle. turn heat to medium. Add green chili pepper and crushed garlic and fry until lightly browned. Optional: add 1/8 teaspoon red chili pepper. Pour mixture over greens. Add remaining salt (1/2 tsp) to taste. Serve with a dash of lime juice (brings out the flavor of the greens).

AFRICAN YAM STEW with COLLARD GREENS

From Sandy in California I made this last night and it was great! Very simple and very good for you. I tasted it before adding the lemon juice and I think that I liked it better without, but the recipe (from a nutrition book - Becoming Vegetarian) called for it, so I've included it below. I added some cooked tomatoes at the same time as the yams. I used 2 very rounded teaspoons of some Chinese Chili Garlic sauce I had in the fridge. I ate it with a dolop of yogurt. Nothing else needed, it's a complete meal. My boyfriend ate it with Pita though. I can't wait for the leftovers tonight.

• 4 cups vegetable broth
• 1 chopped onion
• 2 cups peeled and diced yams or sweet potatoes
• 1 cup cooked (or canned) chick-peas
• 1 cup uncooked brown rice
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 cup peanut or almond butter
• 2 cups chopped collard greens or kale
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 tablespoon Braggs liquid aminos or tamari
• chili sauce to taste

Heat 2 Tbs of stock in a large pot. Add the onion and saute over medium heat for 5 minutes, adding more stock if necessary. Add the remaining stock, yams, chickpeas, rice and salt; simmer for 45 minutes. In small bowl, blend the peanut butter with 1/2 cup of liquid from the stew to make a smooth paste. Stir into the stew along with the greens and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, pepper and tamari or Braggs; add chili sauce to taste. Adjust seasonings and serve. Serves 4.

YANKEE COLLARDS
From 3KillerBs - When I first moved to North Carolina I saw frozen collards in the grocery store but had no idea how they were usually prepared. So, knowing they were related to kale, I adapted my Italian-style recipe for Kale. One southern-born friend says its heresy but I say its delicious.

• 1 lb chopped collard greens
• 1 garlic clove, finely minced
• 1 small onion, chopped (optional)
• 1-2 tablespoon olive oil
• balsamic vinegar
• parmesan cheese, grated
  

Heat olive oil gently in a large, heavy skillet (I use the cast iron chicken fryer).
Saute the collards, onions, and garlic slowly and gently in the olive oil. Give it plenty of time since collards are tough if not slow-cooked -- letting them stew in their own juices until tender. Serve with Basalmic vinegar and parmesan. Add cooked beans or other protein and serve with whole grain bread like cornbread to make a complete meal.

Featured Vegetable: BEETS

The following is from Sam Gugino Home Page - Email SamGugino@SamCooks.com
HISTORY
Beets, botanically-known as Beta vulgaris, are native to the Mediterranean.
Beets don’t have the kind of history that inspires books or poetry. About the most interesting thing you can say about beets, which have apparently been cultivated since prehistoric times, is that early Romans only ate the tops, leaving the roots for medicinal purposes. However, once the Romans got around to cooking the bulbs (probably sometime after the birth of Christ), they found that they liked them very much indeed.
Beets, sugar beets and chard are in the same family, which is why chard leaves (the red-ribbed ones in particular) look so much like beet greens. All three were developed from wild species in Southern Europe.

NUTRITION

A 100 gram serving of beets (1 medium beet, about 3 ounces) has 50 calories, .5 grams of fat, 11 grams of carbohydrates, 2 grams of dietary fiber and 1 gram of protein. Beets are also a good source of potassium (about 312 mg per serving) and a fair source of vitamin A (4% of the RDA). Beet greens contain vitamin C and more iron and minerals than spinach. Beet greens are more nutritious than the beets themselves. They have almost twice the potassium of beets and high amounts of beta carotene, an important antioxidant that helps to fight numerous diseases. Beet greens contain high levels of folic acid, which can help ward off certain birth defects and lung cancer. And speaking of lungs, some studies indicate that beet greens can dampen cravings for nicotine, which may help smokers kick the habit.

SELECTION, STORAGE & HANDLING
Beets should be relatively smooth and firm. The taproot should still be attached. Leaves should be bright, dark green and fresh looking, without withering or slime.
To store beets, separate the leaves from the root, leaving an inch or two of the stems attached to the root. The leaves will sap the moisture from the beet root. Do not trim the tail.Remove any leaves that are damaged before storing the tops in a plastic bag - preferably one that is perforated - in the crisper section of the refrigerator for no more than a few days. Don’t peel or clean the root since the skins will slip off easily during cooking. Put roots in a plastic bag and put them in the refrigerator, where they will keep at least a week.

PREPARATION
Many recipes, particularly older ones, call for boiling beets. But this promotes bleeding as well as loss of nutrients. I like steaming - in the skins, unwashed - which takes about 35 to 40 minutes, depending on size. Then jackets slip off easily and beets are ready for salads and other preparations. Baking and roasting of vegetables has become more popular of late, and beets are a natural for these methods. Baking implies more moderate temperatures (300-375 degrees), while roasting means higher than 375 degrees. Beets can be cooked in a covered or uncovered container, but always with skins left on. Cooking times, of course, will vary depending on the method chosen and the siz of the beets.
Beet greens should be handled like other cooking greens. Clean them in lots of cool water, then drain them in a colander, spin them dry in a salad spinner or cook them with their clinging water as you would with spinach. Often I like to roll stacked, uncleaned leaves and cut them crosswise before cleaning. These strips can then be cooked quite easily by boiling, steaming or braising. I usually cook the stems unless they are very thick. Just cut thick stems into small pieces. Steaming and quick boiling help to minimize nutrient loss. But nutrients can also be retained by saving the cooking liquid for soups, broths or as part of the dish, soaked up by crusty bread. Greens stand up to assertive seasonings such as garlic, smoked pork, anchovies, and chilies. When small and tender, they can be used in salads as an accent to other greens. Also try them in soups and stews.

RED AND YELLOW BEET SALAD WITH ORANGE VINAIGRETTE
This recipe was inspired by a dish I had at the deceased Symphony Cafe in New York City. The contrast with warm beets and goat or blue cheese is marvelous.

• 1 small bunch each of orange and red beets with greens attached
• 1 tablespoon minced shallots
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1/4 cup each, fresh orange juice and cider vinegar
• 2 tablespoons canola (or other) oil
• Salt and freshly white pepper to taste
• 1 orange, peeled and thinly sliced
• About 4 ounces crumbled low-fat goat or blue cheese
• 4 or 5 strands of fresh chives, roughly chopped

Clean and steam beets. As soon as beets are cool enough to handle, but still quite warm, remove skins and cut beets into 1/4-inch slices. Meanwhile, combine shallots, cloves, orange juice, vinegar, oil, salt and pepper. Line a platter with beet greens. Layer beets, alternating orange and red beets. Pour dressing over. Garnish outside with orange slices. Sprinkle top with crumbled goat or blue cheese. Top with chives. Serves 6.

COLD BEET SOUP
Unless you're Eastern European, the idea of beet soup - and cold beet soup at that - may not sound too appetizing. But this soup is easy to make, lovely to look at and very refreshing on a hot day.

• 2 bunches beets with green tops attached
• 4 teaspoons capers
• 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped
• 1 small dill pickle, seeded and chopped
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill1 tablespoon cider or wine vinegar
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 1 small potato, cooked, peeled and cubed
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 pint non-fat sour cream or yogurt

Remove beets from greens, leaving about an inch of stem on each beet. Use greens for another dish. You should have about 1-1/2 pounds of beets. Wash beets thoroughly. Put 1 inch of water in a saucepan and add a steamer basket. Steam beets 30-45 minutes, depending on size, until a knife easily pierces them. Reserve steaming water. Cool beets under running water and slip off the skins. Dice 1 cup of the beets and set aside with two teaspoons of the capers. Cut remaining beets into chunks and put into a food processor with remaining ingredients except sour cream and reserved capers and beets. Puree until smooth. Add a little of the cooking water if too thick. Fold in reserved capers and diced beets and sour cream. Refrigerate several hours. Adjust seasoning as necessary. Serves 6.

BEET AND BEET GREENS GRATIN

• 2 small bunches of beets with greens, about 3 pounds
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1-1/2 cups skim milk
• 3 large cloves garlic, minced
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Butter, coconut or olive oil
• 1/2 cup flavored whole grain bread crumbs

Separate greens from beets, leaving about 1 inch of stems on the top of the beets. Steam as described in the Preparation section above. Save the cooking pot with the water. Cool and peel off skins. Meanwhile, trim stalks from greens unless they are very tender. Stack greens and roll like a fat cigar. Cut crosswise into 1/2-inch wide ribbons. Wash thoroughly and drain. Add to the same pot that steamed the beets - with more water if needed - and steam over moderate heat just until wilted, about 7 minutes. While greens steam, heat butter in a medium-size saucepan until it foams. Add flour and stir over moderate heat until well blended, about 2 minutes. Add milk, stirring constantly until the sauce comes to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, add garlic, salt and pepper and stir as it thickens to the consistency of a light cream sauce. Turn off heat. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut beets into 1/2 inch cubes and add to saucepan with cream sauce. Squeeze out any excess moisture from the beet greens and add to the cream sauce, combining well. Season with more salt and pepper. Pour into a 2-quart gratin dish that has been sprayed or coated lightly with oil or butter. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and bake 25 minutes or until top browns nicely and cream sauce bubbles up. Serves 8.

RAW BEET SALAD WITH APPLES AND RAISINS
To those who don’t even like the thought of cooked beets, eating raw beets may sound like punishment. But this salad may change your mind forever about beets, raw or cooked. Try it with cold, leftover roasted or grilled meats.

• 1/4 cup low or non-fat sour cream
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
• Small bunch beets, about 3/4 pound, trimmed and peeled
• 1 sweet and crisp apple such as a Fuji
• 2 tablespoons sultana raisins
• 1 tablespoon toasted hazelnuts, chopped
• 1 tablespoon chopped chives
• Salt and pepper to taste
• A handful of watercress or spicy arugula

In a small bowl, mix sour cream, mustard and vinegar. Set aside. Grate beets by hand using the second-largest hole on a 4-sided grater or using the grating attachment on a food processor. Put in a mixing bowl. Core apple but do not peel. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes and add to beets. Add raisins, hazelnuts and chives. Season with salt and pepper. Add sour cream dressing and mix well. Taste for seasoning. To serve, put watercress at the end of a small oval platter and spoon out salad onto the platter. Serves 4. (To remove hazelnut skins which can be bitter, put the toasted nuts in a tea towel and rub them together. The skins will slip off.)

Worldly Advice About Cooking Greens

When Luann came to pick up her share from Center of the Heart Yoga today, she enthusiastically relayed her latest discovery about how to cook greens. Her brother, Marc, a world traveler who is visiting Luann and her husband Mike, surprised them the other night by cooking up all of the greens in their share in the simple style he learned in Indonesia. I grabbed a pen to make sure I got the process right and Luann described exactly what Marc did:

Start with a deep saute pan with coconut (or other) oil on medium high heat, wait till oil is hot, then place washed greens (any kind) in the hot oil, quickly stir greens to cover with the oil and keep flipping them over in the pan until they turn bright green, then add vegetetable or chicken stock to the pan, cover and simmer till tender.

Luann said her surprised response to dinner that night was, "Oh, that's how greens are supposed to taste. Wow, they are so good!"